Passover Chocolate Almond Torte

Our friends Xenia and Gary invited our family over to Passover Seder dinner a few years ago. Xenia asked us to bring dessert. For one of the desserts, I ordered a delicious raspberry meringue confection from Martha's Pastries. For a homemade dessert, I found this recipe online at AllRecipes.com, impressed by its 4.5 out of 5 star reader rating.  Brad prepared it for the meal and it got gobbled up quickly. We've enjoyed eating it since, even when it's not Passover. With only five ingredients, the torte offers a different take on a flourless chocolate cake, only this one remains true to the rules of Passover.

Passover Chocolate Torte
Adapted from AllRecipes.com recipe

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup pareve margarine
• 8 ounces semisweet chocolate chips (we like Ghirardelli)
• 5 eggs, separated
• 3/4 cup white sugar
• 1 cup ground almonds (use a coffee grinder or small Cuisinart; adding a bit of sugar from the recipe can help; don't overgrind or it could turn into paste)

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line bottom and sides of a 9 inch springform pan with foil. Grease foil.
2. Melt margarine and chocolate in saucepan over low heat. Stir until smooth and let cool.
3. In a medium-size mixing bowl, beat egg whites until stiff, for about 2 minutes.
4. In a separate bowl, beat together yolks and sugar until thick and pale, about 1 minute. Blend chocolate mixture into the egg yolks. Stir in ground almonds.
5. Fold beaten egg whites into chocolate mixture, 1/3 at a time, until no streaks of white remain. Scrape batter into prepared pan.
6. Place an 8"x 8" baking pan with 1 inch of water in it on the bottom rack of the oven. This will make the torte more moist.
7. Bake torte on center rack for 45 to 50 minutes, or until sides begin to pull away from pan and the top is set in the center. Cover the torte loosely with foil for the last 20 minutes of baking. Don't worry if the cake cracks because the cake will be inverted.
8. Cool on wire rack for 10 minutes and then carefully remove sides of pan. Invert cake onto a serving plate and cool completely. Add confectioner's sugar and berries to finish.

Enjoy this chocolatey sweet at the end of the symbolic Seder meal, or enjoy it any time of the year.

Ruth Reichl on Food Writing, Twitter, and Hermine's Oatmeal Cookies

When I learned that Ruth Reichl was coming to speak at Stanford, I eagerly marked my calendar. As former Editor-in-chief of Gourmet Magazine, restaurant critic, cookbook author and host of PBS' Gourmet's Adventures with Ruth, Reichl has earned her place as America's doyenne of gastronomy.

I've been an admirer for years, and recently have enjoyed her poetic musings on Twitter @ruthreichl. A sampler of her morning meditations:

"Winter wonderland. Snow-dusted trees. Snow to my knees. Fluffy flapjacks in rivers of syrup, softly fried eggs, crisp bites of bacon. Juice." (2/8/11)

"So cold. Heavy snow-swollen sky. Butter-toasted oatmeal, rivers of thick cream, brown sugar. Fresh orange juice: such fragrant hope." (2/13/11)

"Sun! Ribbon of fog hugs half the city. Birds call. Mozza meatballs on toast - soft, savory, rich -perfect way to start this hopeful day." (2/20/11)

"Hot! Still. Sun pouring in the window. Lemonade, very tart. Buttered scones piled with sliced strawberries, whipped cream. Hello Spring!" (3/5/11)

Reichl spoke at Stanford a warm evening in late March about food writing. Why is it so popular now? How has its evolving vocabulary not only reflected changes in society but transformed society? Drawing from a diverse set of food writing, Reichl showed how intertwined food is with human culture. From ancient Greeks and Victorian times, to Winnie the Pooh and early American cookbooks with a strong French foundation, to current writing including the compelling food memoir Blood, Bones & Butter, Reichl highlighted an array of examples to show that food writing has gained increasing respect. In fact, it now has become a downright cultural obsession.

Our relationship to food relates to our sense of ourselves in the context of culture. In the '70s, we lived through an 'I hate to cook' era which disconnected us from food. In the '80s, a cookbook revolution took place when new cuisines and food writing exploded. Suddenly readers and home cooks devoured these books without actually cooking from them. The average cookbook owner prepares only two recipes from each cookbook owned. We're trying to understand and recapture our innate connection to food.

Now there's no more need to apologize for food writing like M.F.K. Fisher used to do. The blogosphere has exploded with food writing, and reality TV food shows garner high ratings. Even though Gourmet magazine shuttered in 2009, many other sources have quickly taken its place. Gourmet didn't survive even though it had its largest subscriber base ever and the highest renewal rates in the industry. During the recession, the magazine's five biggest advertiser categories all cut back drastically: travel, auto, finances, jewelry and watches, and large appliances. In contrast, Gourmet's competitors had advertisers that better survived the recession, with household product companies like P&G and Clorox supporting the magazines.

During the Q&A session, Reichl was asked about what she thought of mystery Twitter user @RuthBourdain, controversially nominated for a James Beard award in the new category of food humor. @RuthBourdain is a mash-up: He/she takes Reichl's tweets and re-writes them in the profane voice of Anthony Bourdain. Reichl thinks @RuthBourdain's a male and hopes he/she wins because then we will all learn who he/she is. Reichl good naturedly loves the mash-up tweets and thinks it's great that food humor has emerged as a new genre of food writing. We may solve the mystery at the awards ceremony May 9.

My morning-after-Ruth musings: Food is elemental to life. In America we're all originally from somewhere else, and have a natural yearning to connect with our family heritage including food. Not only do we want to understand and experience our ethnic cuisines, we also want to know our current American selves through food. But many of us grew up with processed and fast foods, and now seek healthier, more authentic food. We want to return to our American farmer roots, yet also yearn to innovative and improve. Modernist cuisine takes us huge leaps forward, but it's not something the average home cook can make. What's a doable middle ground that balances real food and innovation? We also seek to explore cuisines from other cultures, a kind of gastronomic tourism. Much easier than flying to a faraway place, experiencing wonderful meals from around the globe helps us understand the pulsing lifeblood of other cultures.

My final homage to Reichl: making an oldie but goodie recipe for Hermine's Oatmeal Cookies found on her website. These delicate morsels are easy to make, and taste so good. Reichl's main goal is to get more people to cook. Go to your kitchen, and try these for yourself.

Alexander's Steakhouse: Just Go

I've never been a big steak lover, but I loved the steak at Alexander's Steakhouse.

Primal yet elegant, traditional yet innovative, Alexander's has over-the-top steaks. We knew the restaurant had great Zagat ratings (26/30 for food, 24 for decor, 25 for service) and came highly acclaimed. We knew it had a wall of meat in the lobby and offered all kinds of choices: Wagyu from Australia or the Lone Mountain ranch in NM, dry aged or wet aged, all with their distinct sauces, and even non steak options. What I didn't expect was that I'd have one of the best meals I can remember.

On the one hand, dining at Alexander's brings to mind the elements you'd expect from a top-rated restaurant: elegant, sophisticated, and civilized, the sound of tinkling wine glasses and murmured conversation, with sparkling dishes and silverware.

On the other hand, eating the food brings to mind completely different words: primal, bloody, raw, guttural, instinctual, primitive. It felt like we were in a well appointed cave, connecting back to our caveman roots. The fire roared, with the smell of smoke and the sound of sizzling, thick, juicy pieces of meat still dripping red inside.

The menu isn't traditional meat and potatoes fare. Our waiter informed us the chef is half Japanese, and so many items have a distinctive Asian touch. We enjoyed:

- assorted breads with butter & salt
- shrimp chip with avocado salsa nestled inside
- hamachi shots- two kinds of ginger, jalapeno, black sesame seed
- 6 oz. filet mignon, medium rare, with three kinds of sauces
- 24 oz., 28 day dry aged NY steak with shiitake mushrooms and peppercorn sauce
- truffle fries with parmesan garlic dip
- crimini mushrooms with leeks and sherry
- hibiscus seltzer palate cleanser
- O2 chocolate cake ball with raspberry sauce to melt the dome, revealing cake with Valrhona pearls; malted milk ice cream with cocoa nibs
- cotton candy (arrived with the bill)

What a fun surprise to get the shrimp chip appetizer, a mix of Asian and Mexican flavors. I remember those chips well from my childhood. My medium rare filet mignon melted in my mouth. It's hard not to moan out loud, juices dripping profusely, as you tear into the food. The hamachi shots (drinking down sushi?!) and chocolate O2 dessert complemented the bloody meat perfectly. The crimini side dish transported me to mushroom heaven. The little in-betweens balanced out the main courses nicely, a great give-and-take between savory and sweet, traditional and unexpected. Brad had the 24 oz., 28-day dry aged NY steak and couldn't finish it. The leftovers made a very nice dinner course for him the next day. The truffle fries were rich, rich, rich, and so hard to resist. Surprise cotton candy at the end made for a fun and sweet finish.

We will definitely be back for more. If you haven't tried Alexander's, just go.

Stanford Parents' Club Favorites and Jane Stanford's Roman Punch Recipe

I've had the privilege of joining the Stanford Parents' Club this year, meeting some wonderful fellow parents, learning from faculty lectures, and volunteering to deliver birthday cakes (from the Palo Alto Baking Company) and flowers to Stanford students. The club also sells many items in its online catalog including apparel, jewelry, and mugs. All funds raised go toward undergraduate scholarships.

Club President Nancy Franich recently conducted a vote of Parents' Club members to create a list of favorite local restaurants. She divided the list into two main categories: family friendly and special occasion. The final winners include these favorites:

Parents’ Club of Stanford University
Top Ten Restaurants for You, Your Student and Roommates

1. The Counter, 369 California Ave, Palo Alto, 650 321-3900, Hamburgers, $

2. Peninsula Creamery, 900 HIgh Street, Palo Alto, 650 323-3175, Casual dining, ice cream, $

3. California Cafe, 700 Welch Road #108, Palo Alto, 650 325-2233, California cuisine, small plates and large entrées, $$-$$$

4. Cafe Del Sol, 1010 Doyle St. #1, Menlo Park, 650 326-2501, Mexican, $$

5. Buck’s of Woodside, 3062 Woodside Road, Woodside, 650 851-8010, Breakfast, Diner, $$

6. Il Fornaio, 520 Cowper, Palo Alto, 650 853-3888, Italian, $$ - $$$

7. P.F. Changs, 900 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 650 330-1782, Chinese, $$-$$$

8. Buca di Beppo, 643 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 650 329-0665, Italian, $$ 

9. Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria, 880 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, 650 329-8888, Pizza, $$

10. Dutch Goose, 3567 Alameda De Las Pulgas, Menlo Park, 650 854-3245, Hamburgers, Pub Food, $

Parents’ Club of Stanford University
Top Ten Restaurants for Special Occasions

1. Evvia Estiatorio, 420 Emerson St., Palo Alto, 650 326-0983, Greek, $$$

2. Amber India, 2290 West El Camino Real, #9, Mountain View, 650 968-7511, Indian, $$

3. Bistro Elan, 448 South California Ave., Palo Alto, 650 327-0284, French, $$$

4. Tamarine, 546 University Ave., Palo Alto, 650 325-8500, Vietnamese, $$$

5. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse,180 El Camino Real Ste #G2, (Stanford Shopping Center) Palo Alto, 650 329-8457, Steak, $$$

6. Osteria, 247 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto, 650 328-5700, Italian, $$- $$$

7. Sundance the Steakhouse, 1921 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, 650 321-6798, Steak, $$$ 

8. Left Bank Brasserie, 635 Santa Cruz Ave., Menlo Park, 650 473-6543, French, $$

9. Carpaccio, 1120 Crane St., Menlo Park, 650 322-1211, Italian, $$

10. Flea Street Cafe, 3607 Alameda De Las Pulgas, Menlo Park, 650 854-1226, California cuisine with the emphasis on the organic and sustainable, $$$

The club sells a unique item, the What's Cooking at Stanford cookbook with recipes compiled from members. It includes the usual assortment of family favorites and potluck winners. There's even a special contribution by university co-founder Jane Stanford herself, a recipe for Roman Punch:

Roman Punch
Recipe by Mrs. Leland Stanford, Founder of Stanford University

2 cups boiling water
1 cup granulated sugar
2 cups cold strong tea
1 cup orange juice
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 tablespoon rum extract
1 large bottle (3 1/2 cups) carbonated water
ice

In large saucepan, boil water and sugar together for 5 minutes. Cool, then add tea, orange juice, lemon juice and rum extract. Just before serving, add carbonated water and ice. Makes 9 cups before adding ice.

While I've never made this beverage, it certainly looks intriguing and may be something you'd like to try making someday. Nancy tells me that some find it too sweet, so you can add more carbonated water. I can only imagine where and when Jane enjoyed drinking this over a hundred years ago. Let me know if you try it!

Donato Enoteca: Dreamy Italian Dining in Redwood City

“For me, opening Donato Enoteca is a dream. It’s so gratifying to be able to create the kind of restaurant that honors my heritage and welcomes guests to my doors like they are part of my own family,” says Executive Chef Donato Scotti. “I want this to be a place where people will become regular guests and fall in love with the cooking, atmosphere and sense of Italian hospitality.”

Discovering Donato's is the kind of experience I yearn for when trying a new restaurant. My husband and I went to lunch at Donato's on a Friday in suburban downtown Redwood City, just a couple of blocks away from the Century movie theater and a few steps from City Hall.  We came for the food, but the clean, inviting decor and friendly service immediately put us at ease.

We shared a fresh mozzarella di bufala salad, which veered nicely from the description on the menu. With three types of tomatoes colored vibrant red, golden yellow, and watermelon pink, delicate, crisp coins of cucumber and a refreshing olive oil dressing with tiny ribbons of basil bursting with flavor, the star of the salad shone brightly.  I'd never had such soft, fresh mozzarella before, so tender and sparkling white, like a pillow of goodness inviting me into its creamy embrace. It definitely earned a place in my palate as insalate perfetto.

Brad and I each ordered fresh pasta dishes, something to warm and nourish us on this chilly, damp day. He ordered tagliatelle bolognese, a rich and hearty dish dripping with juicy flavor, just right for an Italian take on a meat and potatoes meal. He ate quickly and efficiently, sopping up the red-orange juices with bread from the basket, not leaving a single morsel of meat or pasta. Sometimes it amazes me how quickly Brad can inhale a meal, but this time I could empathize, and maybe I would eat that way too if no one was looking.

I chose the spaghetti carbonara, a dish not on the regular printed menu but one highly recommended on Yelp for its perfectly simple combination of pasta, guanciale (crispy pig's cheek bits) and sauce made from egg yolk and cheese. I admit the idea of pig's cheek sounded a bit off-putting, but one bite and I'm a convert for life. So much more flavorful than the usual bacon, the guanciale definitely made this dish one I can't forget, one I have to have again, and one that makes me want to go to Italy.

We finished off our delicious lunch with a shared tiramisu. It was creamy, lovely, and soothing, its layers holding different flavors and textures. Even though we weren't really hungry at this point, we always make room for this kind of dessert.

There's so much more to explore on the menu: squid ink pasta with calamari, pizza margherita, and chocolate hazelnut cake. Donato's definitely deserves its spot on the Michelin Guide 2010 recommended list. We'll be back for more.

Valerie's Su Hong Next Day Fried Rice

Su Hong Chinese food is like family. Its stir fries, rices, noodles, and dumplings connect me to my roots. The food brings sustenance to the table in the here and now, while at the same time transporting me to another place altogether. Just call it Chinese takeout nirvana.

It's true, we often order our standard favorites because they're what we look forward to and crave. We cannot deny ourselves the pleasure. For starters, a mix of potstickers, spring rolls, and crab cream cheese wontons does the trick. Next it's on to the tried and true elements of our family-style family meal: brown rice, orange peel beef, chicken chow mein, sauteed string beans, and spicy pepper chicken wings. Depending on our moods, we could just as likely order chicken with broccoli, combo chow fun, curry shrimp, or wonton soup.

If we had to pick one favorite, it would have to be the chicken chow mein. My kids could probably live on this dish for weeks. The thick, chewy noodles with the strips of white chicken, vegetables, and wonderful soy sauce concoction make a wonderful dish. My 11-year old daughter Amanda loves to hold up the longest noodle she can find to show us, since long noodles mean long life. This dish more than any other also brings me back to my childhood to a chicken chow mein that my Aunt So used to make at our big family holiday gatherings. She would make a very large metal pot full of chow mein, and it was always the one favorite dish I'd have every time as we made our way around the buffet tables, whether it was Christmas, Thanksgiving, 4th of July, Chinese New Year's, or my grandmother Popo's birthday.

Everything we've had from Su Hong is good. The service is friendly and efficient, either at their restaurants or from their takeout. There's something for everyone. What little is left over makes a great lunch or ingredients for Valerie's awesome fried rice the next day. It's one of those recipes that requires no measurement or heavy lifting. Just use whatever leftovers you have. 

Some would argue that Su Hong, like many American Chinese restaurants, isn't very authentic. But to this Chinese American, Su Hong authentically rocks.

Valerie's Su Hong Next Day Fried Rice

Heat one to two tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan on medium high.  Stir in leftover brown rice and heat through. Add in bite sized pieces of whatever leftovers you have such as meat, green beans, vegetables, and stir fry. Combine and stir with wooden spoon. Add in one beaten egg and stir continuously to cook and blend in. Add soy sauce to taste and serve hot. Easy and delicious.

Happy Year of the Rabbit!

Mad for Mushrooms on Top

I've always loved mushrooms, even when I was a little girl. Their earthy, fragrant flavor and chewy texture have always enticed my taste buds. Even knowing mushrooms are fungi and sometimes poisonous does not deter me one bit from wanting to eat them.

I have devised an easy way to incorporate lots of mushrooms into various dishes. Or should I say incorporate them ONTO various dishes? My technique is to saute in-season, locally grown mushrooms in olive oil and a little butter and then simply pour them over whatever edible I feel like having that day. For instance, a large serving of sauteed mushrooms goes nicely over:

- good buttered bread (I'm partial to Il Fornaio Rosemary Bread)
- cooked pasta, along with some marinara or cream sauce with parmesan
- cheese quesadillas
- scrambled eggs, omelets, quiche or fritatta
- pizza

I like the mushrooms on top technique because I don't have to worry about making them to fit a recipe. Mushrooms on top makes them the emphatic focus of these dishes so I can make and eat as much as I like, and use whatever variety of mushroom I want.

A simple technique to saute mushrooms:

1. Clean mushrooms by putting them in a colander and quickly rinsing with cold water. Blot dry with a towel.
2. Cut into bite sized pieces.
3. Saute in pan on medium heat in extra virgin olive oil until the mushrooms release their water.
4. After the water evaporates, add a pat of butter and continue to saute for a total of about 10 minutes.
5. Salt to taste.

If you haven't tried them, check out the chanterelles now in season at your farmers' market, the Ferry Building mushroom store, or at Sigona's Market. Saute a big serving and pour over your favorite mushroom delivery dish. You'll discover why chanterelles are called Queen of the Forest.